Airbox, K&N air filter, and exhaust changes - tuning a Citycom

[Thoppa]

Hi,

Molex are very common and they have 1,000's of products, so we need a part number.

The connector has 3 markings - at the top is a logo of some sorts "SJD 0" ? It's the same as this

and googling SJD gives me the manufacturer as Mitsubishi Cable. http://www.trademarkia.com/sjd-75456205.html

Here's a discussion of SJD connectors, based around tuning the Evo.

http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ecuflash/516804-mitsubishi-connectors-sjd-logo.html

So I'm guessing the MAP sensor is a Mitsubishi part, hence their connector? To know who makes the sensor might help to confirm the connector.

The middle has the date it was made (12 month 08 year) and the bottom has a code >PBT+GF10<. PBT is very likely the plastic - all plastics have to be coded for recycling and PBT is polybutylene terephthalate - so maybe SJD/Mistubishi Cable is the maker and GF10 is the part code? Or another plastics code I don't know?

EDIT - yep, GF10 means fibre-reinforced. So there's no part number on the part and the maker seems to be SJD.

SJD connectors are listed on Alibaba http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=electrical+connector+sjd

Beyond this, I haven't been able to discover any more, but I'll keep trying.

cheers

[Thoppa]

Hi,

I adjusted the map to 11.5% today from 10% previously, and while I was doing it I checked out the sensor itself - only markings are the brand - Keihin.

Hunting for Keihin parts took me to some interesting fuel mapping sites like this for a cable
 http://www.triumphtwinpower.com/ttp-obd-2-usb-cable.php
and this for software
http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html
but I haven't managed to identify the part or the connectors.

All good with the tuning though - over the last 900kms, 3 tanks, she's given 33.5km/l on my daily commuting- up by 1.5km/l from before.

[Thoppa]

Hi,

Quick update - I've been doing more in-town riding so fuel consumption is now around 32.5km/l - and I pulled the plug and the fuel ring is now half way round. I have just switched to a colder plug to get it to colour more - CR9EIX - but here is the CR8EIX after about 1,600kms.

[Thoppa]

Hi,

Some good news if you are interested in moderate tuning made easy - I found some thermistors that have almost the exact same resistance profile as the one fitted to the Citycom, except the ones I bought have too low a value by about 40%. So the best parts are the same but between a 2K R and 2.5 K R value at 21 degC.

The ones I bought are Vishay NTCLE100E3152JB0 and there's an Ebay seller with 12 for US$5 incl shipping.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151658072616?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The ones I bought (1.5K R) are fine for warmer climates and add 4% extra fuel. If you get the 2K, they'll add about 7%. 

If anyone is going to do this, let me know, and I can post clearer instructions.

Here is a pic of the measured values of the SYM TA sensor and the Vishay.

[Thoppa]

Long term update - my lovely CC has just rolled over 18,000kms and she's doing fine. I've grown to really be very impressed with this scoot and only wish the chassis was more like a motorbike, especially the front end. I've had only one issue - with the rear axle nut loosening so I fitted a split washer and that seems to have sorted that.

I tried the EBC organic brake pads vs the HH sintered over about 5,000kms each. Organics are great value but the sintered are noticeably better and I like strong brakes so the HH win for me. Didn't notice any difference in disk wear which is surprising. I guess I use less pressure with the HH and I still use the back a lot no matter what's in the front, so that might be why.

The original Maxxis front tire was almost finished at 18,000kms so I got a replacement and fitted it myself. It was my first time to do this - I got a mechanical tool to break the bead, two short tire irons, a big crowbar and some cable ties. I scratched the hell out of the rim so that had to be sanded and polished to remove the scratches. The fun bit was taking the wheel with tire fitted to a nearby gas station to inflate it and get the bead fully onto the rim. It needs a high volume/pressure pump turned up to 42psi to pop on - and when it did, the BOOM! made the staff at the station think I'd had an accident.

Well, I thought it was funny. 

Actually, it would have been much easier to pay someone to do it well, but I wanted to try - and now I know how to do it myself. Anyway, the only tires in stock here in Hong Kong are Diablos and they are 3x the price of Maxxis ordered off the internet. The rear still has a little more life but I can't get a rear 140/70/16 Maxxis anywhere. China has "Kingstone" copies for the princely sum of US$25. I figure I'll try it if I can't get a Maxxis in time, and probably throw it away very soon. If you never hear from me again, it was the Kingstone ;-)

Here's the spark plug at 16,000kms - CR9EIX. Looking dead on perfect. This is with 8.9% voltage gain on the manifold pressure sensor and two of the thermistors mentioned above (about 7.5% extra). She has lots of power now! Before the tuning, she used to run out of puff at 120kmh and slowly creep up to 140 on the flat, 145 on a slight downhill. On the flat now she keeps pulling well until 130 and stops at 140 but still feels like she could go faster. 140 is the redline at 8,500rpm. So I'm gonna get some Dr.Pulley sliders 25x22 and 20g to give her a bit more top end and better fuel economy.

All the best - happy safe riding everyone!

[shoupdawg]

Nice...I've got 21 maybe 22,000 miles on my 2nd City, a 2013.  Been a solid scoot and after I ride my vespa, I end up really valuing the 16 inch wheels.  Great scoot!

[Thoppa]

Bought a second one eh? I can see myself doing the same. That says a lot. What's the little wheel scoot like in fast corners? I guess the front is weaving around a bit? The CC is much better after I fitted a new front tire but is still a little unstable on hard turns. I think I need the 16" wheels cos the road surfaces here can be bad and I guess little wheels will give an uncomfortable ride on bumpy surfaces.

[phipsd]

I like the way my Citycom handles with a Michelin CityGrip on the front. I would be happy with the cheaper Maxxis on the back if I could get them, but not for the front. In high gusty winds or tight twisties, moving forward on the seat makes a dramatic difference in the handling. I'm six-four so I can't move much, but it still makes a meaningful difference.

Still, you are right. The Citycom would benefit from a stronger frontend. If I hit a rough chunk of pavement in a corner at high speed, I can feel the flex. With more normal riding, there isn't a problem.

[Thoppa]

I would love to get City Grips but the Michelin importer isn't interested. I tried to get Metzeler Feel Free too but got the same story. 16" wheel scoots are rare here and they won't import just one or two pairs so no go. Tyres are heavy so international shipping makes it too costly as well.

The Dr Pulley Sliders arrived today - 20g - took about an hour to fit them including cleaning up the variator. The hardest bit was getting the aluminium cover off without damaging the gasket. The belt is 23mm wide after 18,500kms and looking good, so 24,000kms should be possible before it is 22.5mm and it is time to replace it.

I took her out for a spin but the weather is foul so no top speed runs - instead cruising on the highway shows the gearing is now 18kmh/1,000rpm - that's an indicated 110kmh at 6,100rpm now - up 10kmh and down 100rpm. Acceleration is noticeably less (did I get too heavy? hmm) and the sliders keep the revs lower than before around town too, so more throttle is needed to get the revs up during acceleration. This is all as expected based on others' experience. My aim was to see if I get better fuel economy on my commute - it averages 32km/l so I'll run her for a few weeks and see if that improves.

cheers

[Thoppa]

6 month update :-)

She's just clocked 25,000kms and no problems. I really love this scoot's reliability. Day in day out, never an issue, just easy to ride and maintain. Good job SYM ! However, the bodywork is starting to loosen up and there is an occassional buzz from the front console. So not perfect ;-)

I replaced the belt at 21,870kms and since then the 20g Dr Pulley sliders have settled into a very consistent behaviour. I get 33.5km/l fuel economy up from 32km/l. Top speed is now 149kmh at 8,250 rpm instead of 145 @8,500 - the needle just touches 150 but not quite there! So close ;-) Highway cruising is dead on 100kmh at 6,000rpm which is 200 rpm less and 120kmh at 7,000rpm.

However, I suspect that 20g rollers (up from 18g standard) would have had this effect anyway, so I'm not convinced sliders are worth the extra money. Perhaps someone who has only increased roller weights can confirm?

All the best,

[Thoppa]

Hi,

Quick update - she's done 40,000kms now and still doing great.

Faults:

She needed a new rubber centre stand bumper at 28,000, which I made myself from a door stop. The original had fallen off. The original parts would cost $12.

The rear axle nut starting working loose so I added a split washer and that was fixed.

The brake light leds in the top box died so I replaced them. They died again and I couldn't find a fault (resistors blown? seems not) so I added a strip behind the red reflector and that's been fine.

The brake rear light switch went at 35,000kms so I got a new one for $11.

The rear brake lever goes soft - the first time this happened I did a brake fluid change but it happened again soon after and actually just needs pumping to get the air out. I suspect there is an air leak which will worsen but at the moment is fine.

Repairs have cost under $40 in 40,000kms! In the meantime, I would have needed 6 new air filters so the K&N has already saved me money too.

So, I highly recommend this scoot for easy reliable relaxed riding :-) Good job Sym!

[Thoppa]

Another year, another 12,000kms :-) She's at 52,000kms now, which is just over the previous record for my use of a two wheeler, set by an XLR250R.

It turns out that the loosening rear axle nut is a persistent problem. The best solution so far has been a double nut (M16 x1.25 pitch) with thread lock. I will buy a new OEM nut at some point to see if that does it.

The loosening rear axle nut is the cause of the softening rear brake - as it loosens, brake gets softer until it then gets very hard with no real braking action. So I can now tell from the brake lever when the rear axle nut is loosening.

I have a leaking nearside fork seal. I bought new seals to replace it but still haven't had time to do the job and in the meantime (8 months!) most if not all of the oil has now leaked out. It doesn't seem to affect handling much, if at all, so now I'm not sure if I'll bother until I have nothing else to do - i.e. never. I'm really quite surprised that less damping has no great effect - on a motorcycle it's very noticeable.

I got new pair of Seyoun NJK tires and fitted them myself - getting pretty good at that task without doing paint damage now. They are better than the Maxxis so far - very predictable, stable, good dry grip with similar longevity and no front wobble. I haven't had a chance to test them in a downpour yet because it is the dry season still.

I took the rear engine case off at 47,000km to inspect the belt, clutch etc. due a slight increase in mechanical noise, esp when cold. The belt is wearing normally and I reckon it'll be good for 35-40,000kms until it reaches its wear limit. I don't see any way to inspect the clutch or variator without disassembling them, so I'll postpone those jobs until the belt needs replacing in about 6 months or so.

Condition wise, she's looking dull and shabby despite washes and the screen is yellowing from being parked outside while I'm indoors working. The bodywork buzzes a bit, more than before, which is mildly annoying when it gets my attention. She is showing her age and needs some light restoration with plastic polishes etc. However, it's not worth it because she is now 10 years old and has no second hand value at all here. Pride of ownership (and weekend thrills) is why I also have a Kawasaki Ninja ;-)

Well, that's about it. I guess I'll check in again when I do the clutch, variator, belt etc.

[Tromper]

Hey Thoppa,

Great info & write-ups.  I tried your BLog link from your first post & it's noted as private, & requires a login.
Any help there or is that a dead link these days?

[Thoppa]

Thanks... and sorry, but it became necessary to lock down the blog so it's dead now - no access to anyone. There's not much more there anyway - just my waffly opinions on stuff - nothing actually useful.

BTW, she's just about 56,000kms and the rear brake light switch is playing up again. It seems the dealer fitted a crappy pattern part and ripped me off. It's a stupid cost cutting move so typical here - there's a China phrase "chabuduo" which means good enough, in other words, it works, but not for long.

Makes me wish I lived in Taiwan.