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21
General Discussion / Maxsym 400i
« Last post by Ms Hillary on June 05, 2021, 02:57:34 AM »
Hello folks, just a general question concerning the Maxsym 400 I'm considering purchasing a 2021 model but so far have only been able to find the odd dealer or motoring journalists opinions, I would like to hear opinions pro's and con's about the 400 from 2019-2021.
Thank you Hillary
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General Discussion / Re: Changing cylinders - anyone done it?
« Last post by Thoppa on June 04, 2021, 08:12:10 PM »
One month later... and still no leaks or problems of any kind. :-)

The ring replacement has restored engine power so the top speed is very similar to what it used to be as a low mileage machine. The engine is noticeably smoother and quieter. So far, she is not using much, if any, oil so I guess no top up will be needed between changes. The fuel economy is almost back to normal too - she was as low as 28km/l before the new rings, and now is a little over 30km/l so far, instead of the long-term average of 32km/l. I've been giving her more WOT than I used to - perhaps the camshaft has affected the bottom end power so I'm more inclined to give her lots of gas. Not sure.

Anyway, the ring replacement is a success - it's done a good job of renovating the worn engine. I wonder for how long...
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Symba / Re: Air filter hose leak
« Last post by Syd on June 03, 2021, 10:00:21 PM »
Well done. Hope it's not too loud.
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Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Valves
« Last post by Cisium on June 03, 2021, 11:52:06 AM »
How does one remove the cylinder head side cover?
The manual says to remove it in order to adjust the valves, and seems to indicate a special wrench is required, but no one in this thread has mentioned such a wrench.
I removed the 2 screws but no amount of prying or twisting will budge it.
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Mio 50 / Re: My experience tuning up a mio 50
« Last post by bltkmt on June 03, 2021, 07:38:21 AM »
I have a 2014, and have had it tuned up exactly once.  These things seem to run well with little attention.
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HD200 / Re: Front and rear dummy turn signals
« Last post by Tromper on June 02, 2021, 07:58:33 AM »
A quick edit just in case someone searches this.
All of the OEM light sockets are RY10W incandescent.  Those are 10 watt bulbs and not exceptionally bright.
All but the front two worked with BA15S, but the front Euro/non-stalk blinkers are BAU15S.
They will fit larger bulbs.  You're on your own for the heat from those causing issues.  I replaced 'em with LEDs so just not an issue at under 5 watt draw on each.
I did find a flasher that has a click and did work with lights in all 8.  Should work with 4 but didn't try.

Just converted all 4 to LED on a 2008 and about to do it on a 2010.  So far so good.
Yours is probably identical in these regards, but possibly some differences.

- Removing the N. American Pods is potentially a ticket due to N. American turn signal width requirements, but is very easy to do if you want.
2 bolts each and tape off the wires.

- The Eurasian lights in the front and the back are already wired and just need lights.  If yours are the same as mine (likely)
Fronts are BAU15S (150 degree pins). Rears are BA15S (180 degree pins) - See below. Bulb types are listed on the housing.
You can use an 1156 for the rear, but factory is an RY10.  It's not real bright but look nice.  My LED's ain't as pretty but are insanely brighter.
I forget the front's OEM bulb name, but it's on the lens.  I just used LEDs.

- If you put in LEDs you'll need an electronic flasher.  The SYM take a round 2 pin one. 
You will lose the click, & will have an option of a silent flash or a very loud beep.  I tried the latter and ended up cutting the relay open and pulling the beeper.  Way too loud for me.



Aloha,

Just recently picked up a 2014 HD 200 Evo and was trying to find information on changing the US style turn signals to the dummy signals that work overseas. I’ve done a search and have seen people add LEDs to the rear tail light to get those signals working, but haven’t seen anything about the front. I am pretty certain that the clear lens in the handlebar cover can be converted to turn signals (and assume that is how they are in Europe and Asia). Then the US lollipop signals in the front and rear can be removed. Would anyone have more information about this?

Mahalo,
Ming
28
Symba / Re: Air filter hose leak
« Last post by SupersonicSymba on June 02, 2021, 01:51:57 AM »
Here is an eBay link to show the item.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/153413590439
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HD200 / Re: Time to sell the parts?
« Last post by redlotus on June 01, 2021, 10:51:58 PM »
still thinking of selling parts?  location?  Ron in Ohio
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Symba / Air filter hose leak
« Last post by SupersonicSymba on June 01, 2021, 07:43:33 PM »
Hi
I had a number of air leaks on the hose between the air filter box & carb on my Symba. I know I'm not alone with this as I remember reading posts here before from others having the same issue.
Over time I've been adding sealant but thought I'd try & do something more permanent. I couldn't buy the hose alone. I could only buy the complete air box for $125 so decided to buy a 35mm filter from eBay for $13 & adapt it to fit. I removed the filter by cutting through the steel part to avoid reducing the length of the hose itself as that would make it too short.
I had to file the housing to increase the hole size a little after removing the old hose.
The biggest issue with fitting the new hose is the difficulty of fitting it to the carb as the rubber is a lot harder than the original one. It has to be fitted separately (the original is glued to the lower half or the air box). As there isn't much space & a lot of pressure & twisting is needed it can't be fitted if it is joined to the lower housing. After mounting the hose I then mounted the lower half of the air box to the upper half & added RTV silicone sealer to the hose to housing join. I drilled a hole into the hose so a connector could be inserted for the breather pipe. RTV sealant holds it in place. When it is time to service the air filter I'll have to separate it at the join to remove the lower air box part & reapply silicone again. I can't see any other way.
Have added a 90 degree joiner to the breather tube so that there is less pressure applied to the connector.
Anyway, so far so good. Hope it lasts a while.


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