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Messages - Thoppa

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Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: April 22, 2015, 01:09:37 AM »
ECU and meter are both on the same circuit - so maybe take some new fuses and try changing them. With the fuse out, test for voltage across the box terminals to see if there is juice at the fusebox for the ECU / meter circuit.

If a fuse blows as soon as you insert it, at least you know you have a short somewhere, but shorts are a pig to find, could be worn cable shorting on the frame, and that could be any tight spot.

Citycom 300 / Re: BAW15D led tail/stop light bulbs ?
« on: April 21, 2015, 08:58:36 PM »
haha... yeah, that's a confession... two bulbs is good though cos if one dies, the other still works... but the same can't be said for the dumbass headlight control unit. That has a current sensing circuit so if one bulb goes, it switches them both off. That gets my vote for Most Moronic Engineering. But it can be replaced with a couple of relays for cheap

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: April 21, 2015, 08:53:14 PM »
You don't say if you checked the fuses - behind the glove box panel on the left.

Citycom 300 / Re: BAW15D led tail/stop light bulbs ?
« on: April 20, 2015, 08:56:52 AM »
yep, got the PM.  :)

Citycom 300 / Re: BAW15D led tail/stop light bulbs ?
« on: April 20, 2015, 04:48:26 AM »
How long have yours lasted ? My scoot is 4 yrs old but low miles so I was surprised one of mine blew. But hey ho.

I got them on Taobao. China's ebay. They don't have 12495 or baw15d but PR21/5W gets the goodies... nothing on Alibaba.

I got the best ones I could - stuff on Taobao isn't all that good so I avoid the cheapest stuff. Plus many of the ads aren't accurate so they say it is PR21 but then it is in fact 1157. Not an easy place to shop.


RV250 / Re: Aftermarket exhaust?
« on: April 19, 2015, 09:10:35 PM »
Sorry Phip but that just is not my experience of tuning a SYM at all. The CVT puts the engine at peak torque most of the time, which is where I've got the biggest gain from a freer flowing engine, as my experience from tuning the Citycom has shown me. However, only changing the exhaust and not modifying the EFI isn't gonna do very much for performance, so in that sense, I agree. But a higher flow air filter, less restrictive exhaust and EFI changes, and the Citycom has gained over 10%. When I did this to a Yamaha XT660 I got just 3% so my SYM really was being held back. I don't have any dyno tests to prove it, so I see no way to prove it to you, but FWIW, I think I should post an opposing opinion to a naysayer.

Citycom 300 / Re: Citycom brakes
« on: April 19, 2015, 12:54:45 AM »
Has anyone bought pads off this seller? Seems very cheap for EBC sintered?

Citycom 300 / Re: BAW15D led tail/stop light bulbs ?
« on: April 19, 2015, 12:49:00 AM »

I found a seller and made a small order of bulbs a few days ago and they arrived today - tested them and they're all good. I am planning to sell some on Ebay because it doesn't have any available, but I thought I'd offer them here first to see if anyone's interested.



They cost me $7.18 each, so if you want a pair, let me know. I have two pairs - one is standard and the other has a flashing stop light - pulses about 8 times very rapidly, pauses briefly, then pulses 8 times again, pauses, and so on.

I've only got the two pairs and after that, I'll be selling them on Ebay.



I adjusted the map to 11.5% today from 10% previously, and while I was doing it I checked out the sensor itself - only markings are the brand - Keihin.

Hunting for Keihin parts took me to some interesting fuel mapping sites like this for a cable
and this for software
but I haven't managed to identify the part or the connectors.

All good with the tuning though - over the last 900kms, 3 tanks, she's given 33.5km/l on my daily commuting- up by 1.5km/l from before.

Smallest bolt I've found is 8mm, the largest seems to be on the rear wheel axle ? Screws all seem to be Philips. The SYM rear carrier/rack uses allen bolts but I haven't found any more elsewhere. Have a look at the manual for details. It isn't fully accurate or detailed but it's good enough.

Hope you like your new machine !

Citycom 300 / Re: CDI ?
« on: April 16, 2015, 11:32:05 PM »

So there was no voltage at the fuses, or battery voltage or too high voltage ? What voltage is your battery ?

The regulator and rectifier are silicon so they don't have resistance as such - they have forward voltage - and when the forward voltage (between 0.1 and 1.2 volts depending on the silicon) is exceeded they conduct - so no resistance. But connect them up in reverse and they have infinite resistance. So I'm not sure what you mean by no resistance. 

I've had a rectifier blow on a Honda and the engine then ran on the battery for a very short time before she died completely. It didn't blow the ECU. So you might be fine with just a new R/R. A rectifier is a simple thing and you could get a cheap 10A bridge rectifier from an electronics shop to test, and then try the R/R as just a regulator. probably better is to remove it and test it with a battery and voltmeter to check it is dead. Did you do this already ? First test it doesn't short circuit on the input, and if not, then you could feed it 18V from a laptop psu, and I guess it should output around 12V if it's fully working, 17V or so if the regulator has gone, and maybe nothing if the rectifier has gone.


Page 15 of the manual has all the torque values in metric (kgf-m) but you might be able to get a torque wrench with both sets of markings? AFAIK the only country still using the imperial system is the USA so maybe dual scale wrenches are not common there?

Citycom 300 / Re: CDI ?
« on: April 13, 2015, 06:23:30 AM »
No problem - and welcome to the forum. ;D

First, I'd check all the wires into / out of the ECU etc - I'd always assume it is a loose connector, corroded terminal, or pinched wire. And yes, could it be a fuse? ::)

So do some continuity checks. It's a pain but that's electrical faults.  ;)

Citycom 300 / Re: CDI ?
« on: April 13, 2015, 05:10:52 AM »

The CDI function is in the ECU. You can download a manual here that gives some fault finding etc.


Citycom 300 / BAW15D led tail/stop light bulbs ?
« on: April 07, 2015, 01:54:52 AM »
Hi all,

I'm in the process of upgrading the lighting to LEDs.

I already did the 3 T10 bulbs - front sidelights and rear number plate lamp. So next I'll get two LED 18W H4 led headlights - should be about the same lumens as two 90W incandescent bulb.

I'm also looking for LED tail light bulbs - the fitting is a Phillips 12495 which is the same as BAW15D but it's hard to find LEDs in that fitting. Has anyone done this? Did you manage to get LED bulbs? I can probably order some from China if needs be but that can be slow and a lot of hassle.

If I do have to order from China, is anyone interested in a group buy ?

Thanks !

EDIT - after a few days hunting, I haven't found anywhere, and I can't even find anyone selling the mounts either. I can get pretty much anything and everything except BAW15d. Thanks SYM. So either I change the sockets or I make my own bulbs. What would you do? Since I had a dead bulb, I made my own.

I've posted details on my blog about halfway down the page. Here are a few of the images if you're curious.

The tail light is brighter, the stop light about the same, but they use a lot less juice and should outlast my time with her. So hopefully, that's the last time I think about them.

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