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Messages - Thoppa

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61
Citycom 300 / Re: Citycom start always turning when power is on ?
« on: May 14, 2016, 02:50:49 AM »
So the weldling left some extra bits of sharp metal on the frame and that wore through the loom? Yikes, I think you were unlucky with that.

Most switchgear I have disassembled is two bits of copper and a spring - I had a Yamaha Fazer light switch that didn't work after 4 years so it's not a SYM thing I'm afraid.

If you want, check out the design of the Kawasaki ER6 and it's China copy the WK 650. They shrank the air filter, reduced the clutch plates from 6 to 5, etc etc.... everything they could do to save cost but externally you wouldn't know - it looks like a full copy. What I'm saying is Taiwan is a whole level up in quality than China. 

62
Citycom 300 / Re: Cut and modify the stock Citycom exhaust muffler?
« on: May 14, 2016, 02:39:44 AM »
Cool - how long have you had it? Is it good quality? I'm also wondering if it makes a lot of noise or has made the engine run leaner - the spark plug won't be as brown/black as before.

I'm trying out a new exhaust too - a longer one designed for a CB400. Works better than the short one. So far so good.

All the best,
Tom

63
Citycom 300 / Cut and modify the stock Citycom exhaust muffler?
« on: April 17, 2016, 07:39:52 PM »
Hi,

Has anyone tried to cut and modify the stock Citycom exhaust muffler, or a similar design? I have done a lot of Googling but not found any pictures of the innards to see the inside routing design. I only found this post by Doug Reid so far http://symforum.com/index.php?topic=985.msg5814#msg5814

I can see the exit pipe has a curve inside - so I can't see how long or how deep inside the muffler it goes. I put a very long cable tie down the pipe and then pulled the tie out until it caught on the end of the pipe. It seems it 27.5 cm long.

I can also see a mesh on the inlet pipe and measured that as 15cm from the front of the inlet. I assume that mesh is the start of the cat.

The whole muffler is 61cm. I'm guessing it is like the design of the Zuma or the Honda Faze 250 ?

What I'd like to do is keep the cat for environmental reasons, but improve the gas flow by losing or widening some of the interior chambers/piping. I already have an aftermarket pipe so the stock muffler is not in use. Something like this:



Any thoughts anyone? Do you know anyone that has done a successful mod?

All the best,

EDIT - just seen a cheap after market exhaust on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201501946680?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=500683017960&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Looks interesting...

64
I would love to get City Grips but the Michelin importer isn't interested. I tried to get Metzeler Feel Free too but got the same story. 16" wheel scoots are rare here and they won't import just one or two pairs so no go. Tyres are heavy so international shipping makes it too costly as well.

The Dr Pulley Sliders arrived today - 20g - took about an hour to fit them including cleaning up the variator. The hardest bit was getting the aluminium cover off without damaging the gasket. The belt is 23mm wide after 18,500kms and looking good, so 24,000kms should be possible before it is 22.5mm and it is time to replace it.

I took her out for a spin but the weather is foul so no top speed runs - instead cruising on the highway shows the gearing is now 18kmh/1,000rpm - that's an indicated 110kmh at 6,100rpm now - up 10kmh and down 100rpm. Acceleration is noticeably less (did I get too heavy? hmm) and the sliders keep the revs lower than before around town too, so more throttle is needed to get the revs up during acceleration. This is all as expected based on others' experience. My aim was to see if I get better fuel economy on my commute - it averages 32km/l so I'll run her for a few weeks and see if that improves.

cheers

65
Bought a second one eh? I can see myself doing the same. That says a lot. What's the little wheel scoot like in fast corners? I guess the front is weaving around a bit? The CC is much better after I fitted a new front tire but is still a little unstable on hard turns. I think I need the 16" wheels cos the road surfaces here can be bad and I guess little wheels will give an uncomfortable ride on bumpy surfaces.

66
Citycom 300 / Re: CITYCOM 300 2016 ROLL OUT
« on: April 05, 2016, 07:47:55 PM »
Yeah, I went to Kaohsiung last summer for a holiday and had a look - very hard to find anything over 200cc. I rented a 150 which was actually lots of fun but I couldn't find anywhere that could help me buy a Citycom for export. I guess I need to find an export agent - maybe the same one that exports to the US dealer?

67
Citycom 300 / Re: CITYCOM 300 2016 ROLL OUT
« on: April 03, 2016, 11:36:42 PM »
K50 looks like similar mechanicals as a T-Max - twin engine, belt drive from a fixed engine, so it's not really the same thing as a Citycom and likely much more expensive. I still haven't seen a  Citycom S for sale anywhere so I dunno prices - expect around 3,600-3,800 euros it seems.

The SYM importer in Hong Kong say they have no plans to import Citycom S so I may have to get one direct from Taiwan, or even via US/Europe, which is crazy. For sure I will replace my current scoot with the same, unless someone does a 16" wheel scoot with the same comfort and economy but a better chassis.

Does anyone know an agent in Taiwan that exports Citycoms? They don't sell them in dealers so an exporter is the only way it seems.

68
Long term update - my lovely CC has just rolled over 18,000kms and she's doing fine. I've grown to really be very impressed with this scoot and only wish the chassis was more like a motorbike, especially the front end. I've had only one issue - with the rear axle nut loosening so I fitted a split washer and that seems to have sorted that.

I tried the EBC organic brake pads vs the HH sintered over about 5,000kms each. Organics are great value but the sintered are noticeably better and I like strong brakes so the HH win for me. Didn't notice any difference in disk wear which is surprising. I guess I use less pressure with the HH and I still use the back a lot no matter what's in the front, so that might be why.

The original Maxxis front tire was almost finished at 18,000kms so I got a replacement and fitted it myself. It was my first time to do this - I got a mechanical tool to break the bead, two short tire irons, a big crowbar and some cable ties. I scratched the hell out of the rim so that had to be sanded and polished to remove the scratches. The fun bit was taking the wheel with tire fitted to a nearby gas station to inflate it and get the bead fully onto the rim. It needs a high volume/pressure pump turned up to 42psi to pop on - and when it did, the BOOM! made the staff at the station think I'd had an accident.

Well, I thought it was funny. 

Actually, it would have been much easier to pay someone to do it well, but I wanted to try - and now I know how to do it myself. Anyway, the only tires in stock here in Hong Kong are Diablos and they are 3x the price of Maxxis ordered off the internet. The rear still has a little more life but I can't get a rear 140/70/16 Maxxis anywhere. China has "Kingstone" copies for the princely sum of US$25. I figure I'll try it if I can't get a Maxxis in time, and probably throw it away very soon. If you never hear from me again, it was the Kingstone ;-)

Here's the spark plug at 16,000kms - CR9EIX. Looking dead on perfect. This is with 8.9% voltage gain on the manifold pressure sensor and two of the thermistors mentioned above (about 7.5% extra). She has lots of power now! Before the tuning, she used to run out of puff at 120kmh and slowly creep up to 140 on the flat, 145 on a slight downhill. On the flat now she keeps pulling well until 130 and stops at 140 but still feels like she could go faster. 140 is the redline at 8,500rpm. So I'm gonna get some Dr.Pulley sliders 25x22 and 20g to give her a bit more top end and better fuel economy.

All the best - happy safe riding everyone!


69
Citycom 300 / Re: Fuel Gauge....Flashing, how low am I?
« on: January 31, 2016, 09:22:48 PM »
My gauge has been reasonably accurate - first two bars are ~50km, every bar after is ~40km. When the yellow light comes on, there's just over 1 litre left.

70
Citycom 300 / Re: CityCom gone to heaven!
« on: January 31, 2016, 09:12:02 PM »
Sorry to hear she died... and no takers for parts ! I woulda snapped that up if I was local.... anyway, any plans to buy another?

71
Citycom 300 / Re: "Citycom" decals / stickers / font ?
« on: June 16, 2015, 09:13:18 PM »
There are shops here that make them but they only have the common stuff like Toyota etc fonts, so I was gonna go for vinyl.

But as it turns out, no need. Many of the scratches were in the clear lacquer so they could be rubbed down with fine wet and dry paper, some paint polish to smooth, then re-lacquered, then more paint polish. I filled the larger scratches with ordinary gloss black paint and they hide surprising well under a lacquer coat. The cracked plastic is now held together with epoxy - that won't last but it's easy to do again in due course. It took a few days to do but she doesn't look banged up now so that's all good.

cheers


72
Citycom 300 / "Citycom" decals / stickers / font ?
« on: June 11, 2015, 12:26:39 AM »
Hi,

Someone knocked my CC over when I was at work and damaged the near side. I can repair a lot of the damage myself but if I repaint the side panel, I will need to get the side decal that says "Citycom 300i".

Has anyone had the sticker made for their scoot ? Do you know if it is a standard font or if there is a scan of the lettering available somewhere to get a sticker laser cut ? Maybe a SYM catalogue/brochure has it ? I've hunted for one but so far they are very small and not clearly defined.

Thanks,

Tom

73
Citycom 300 / Re: Replacing the headlight control unit
« on: May 27, 2015, 10:31:06 PM »
I guess there is no quicker way than to remove the front. Might get quicker with practice but who wants to practice that? I tried one hand from the top and another from the bottom but those retaining clips were too tricky, cos there's not enough space.

The LEDs are brighter but the beam is more dispersed - more like fog lamps than headlights. That's fine here where there is lighting everywhere at night but would be a problem if I were back in the UK with lighting only in the towns.

74
Citycom 300 / Replacing the headlight control unit
« on: May 25, 2015, 03:21:59 AM »
Hi,

Anyone found a quick way to change the headlight bulbs ? There doesn't seem to be enough space behind the bulbs to do it without removing the front fairing - anyone found a way to avoid this ?

I wanted to run some LED H4 bulbs but the HCU won't let me - it seems it has a load detection circuit and the load is too low. So when one bulb goes, they both go off. That's just dumb. With LEDS, the bulbs come on briefly but then turn off.

So I got two relays on Ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251832583469?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and removed the hcu and cut the wires going into the connector. There are two thin wires, one blue, one white, that come from the switch. There are two thick wires blue (hi beam) and white (lo beam) that connect to the bulbs. The green is earth and the red/white is always live from a 20amp fuse - be careful not to short that.



The relays come with wiring harnesses - the yellow is the coil controlling the switch, the blue is the input voltage, and the black and the red are the switched output voltages.



To get at the hcu - remove six screws around the brake levers, and then lever down the black "handle front cover" on page 198 of the manual, then remove five screws to remove the windscreen, then unclip the coloured handguard. Then two screws to remove the black "front cover" centre piece, and lever that up. The rest is stripping wire, feeding on a piece of shrink wrap, twisting the wires together, soldering, heating the shrink wrap to insulate the join, then some electrical tape to insulate and keep the water out. Going slowly, doing it well, about two hours.

Changing the bulbs is a major pain - another hour - get the front fairing off (10 screws and 3 bolts), remove the rubber lamp protector, squeeze the lower retaining clip pins together at the bottom so they come off, remove the connector, fit a new bulb into the lamp, put the clip back on, then the electrical connector, then the rubber protector, repeat for the second bulb, then refit the fairing. I broke a bit of plastic holding the retaining pins at the top so I also had to repair that.

What a job.Hopefully the led bulbs will last forever so I never need to do that again.

75
Citycom 300 / Re: 170 cc gear oil = how many ml?
« on: May 16, 2015, 08:11:48 PM »
Cc and ml are 2 ways to say the same thing. So 170ml is 170cc

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