Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Thoppa

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 9
Citycom 300 / Re: maximum engine mileage
« on: November 10, 2018, 12:38:23 AM »
I bought my CC used with 4,000kms on it - almost 4 years ago - and it is 2009 I think so the previous owner was a "non-user". I'm doing around 8 to 12,000kms a year - about 70km a day, usually 4 days a week - I plan to run it until it won't run anymore. It's been so utterly reliable with so little maintenance.... so even at 12k a year, you might have to wait some time to find out how many kms this scoot can do. I don't mind "waiting" - hope it takes many more years to find out ;-)

But it'll now die on the way home cos I said that.

Citycom 300 / Re: maximum engine mileage
« on: October 20, 2018, 10:43:19 PM »
Mine has 47,000kms/30,000 miles. No problems. I've changed engine oil every time the red light came on and gear box oil every second time.

Citycom 300 / Re: Citycom 300 headlight relay problem
« on: September 15, 2018, 06:18:58 PM »
Super late reply but ... a burn out is caused by too much current drain ... this could be a wiring issue, such as a wire that has been rubbed or sliced a little, exposing the copper and allowing current to flow where it shouldn't. Total pita to find shorts tbh.

Citycom 300 / Re: idle dips
« on: September 15, 2018, 06:14:02 PM »
Mine has done this too and it was while I was messing around with tuning so I think fuelling or air/exhaust leaks are the most likely causes. In your case, the first thing I'd check is the air filter since they clog up pretty fast and that affects fuelling.

Citycom 300 / Re: Not a sound
« on: September 04, 2018, 08:07:57 PM »
With everything working, the Citycom still won't turn over for a number of reasons and you listed all of them that I know. The fault that comes to mind is faulty switches (they look on or off but aren't working) - my rear brake light switch broke and I didn't know it. To check them you'll need to check wiring with a circuit tester. The other fault I've seen reported is the starter solenoid - that can be removed and tested with a battery to see if it is switching or not. 

Citycom 300 / Re: SYM Citicom parts.... Where do you get them??
« on: September 04, 2018, 07:56:40 PM »
There's a Greek company called Makina Parts who ship worldwide and they have Citycom bits if you can't get them in the US.

Hello all,  Here's my story briefly. I just bought like today.... a spanky new, zero mileage 2009 SYM Citicom 300i from a motorcycle shop that closed it doors via an auction. Ok, no user manual comes with when I went to pick it up. So I am full of questions. Like what octane gas to use. Transmission oil and Engine oil do you recommend. I was able to download the user and service manuals online. I want this scooter for my work commute which is over an hour away, so this little thing better be reliable... I am a woman, motorcyclist...own a Yamaha  bagger which is great for long runs. A puddle jumper just looked like fun and I hope I get great gas mileage. Is gear oil the same as transmission oil? I am thinking so. Where do you recommend for getting replacement parts. I would like to run synthetic in it, but I need the weights.   There are no scooter mechanics in my neck of the woods, so a lot of this I will be doing for myself.  Does this bike have issues I need to look out for? Also are there  SYM tool kits to purchase to put in your bike?   Thanks in advance. I am used to riding 964 lb bike, this thing is quite wobbly and high. Sort of freaky. Also no shifter... You just use your brakes all the time to slow down? You must go thru a lot of brake pads. Assure me I will not die on this thing....BTW, what average sweet zone this bike likes to go at? Top end is 79 mph?    Thanks...WR   8)

Hi - good choice of scooter and you lucked out with zero miles :-) I've had no problems with mine. After 43,000kms one fork seal needs replacing but this is just servicing really, so if you look after yours, it should be trouble free. I put the scoot on my blog so there's lots of info there

You already downloaded a service manual
Here are parts lists pdfs, not that you'll need them
I use 95 unleaded.
I use cheap 10W40 API SL engine oil - change when the red oil light comes on. It's quite frequent so don't waste $$ on premium oil that is designed to last a long time. (BTW the oil light is not a warning light as such - a reminder light - reset it with a button press on the dash.) 
I change the gearbox oil using a jumbo syringe every second engine oil change - I use Castrol GL5 85W-140.
Air filters clog up rapidly and aren't cheap so a few owners have made their own from a discarded old one. It's easier than you imagine and worth it if you're looking to keep running costs low for long term use/ownership. If you can get a 5cm x 20cm K&N element, this will flow about the same as the original larger paper element. Epoxy putty is a decent seal and solid fixing to hold the K&N filter onto the SYM filter frame.
My brake pads have lasted well but I commute on a highway so YMMV. I found cheap replacements on Ebay - details in the blog.
Your tires might be very old Maxxis - any cracks? Most people love Michelin City Grips but I can't get them here in HK so I have Seyoun NJK - quite similar to the original Maxxis.
No idea about sourcing parts or tool kits for you there, sorry.
The front bodywork is a major pain to remove until you've had some practice, so even a bulb change can take half a day at first. The headlight system is funky so stick to standard bulbs - it won't work with LEDs as standard.
Coming from a motorcycle, the handling will be a little odd at first but I got used to it pretty quickly. The front brake is crap because of a tail heavy weight distribution and the pads are crap - EBC do a sintered metal pad upgrade SFA264HH that fixes that. Keep the OEM front pads - they are identical to the ones in the rear where they work well. Again, details on the blog :-)
The first place to rust will probably be the rear shock springs and then the starter motor, located immediately in front of the rear wheel. I removed the rust and painted it with Hammerite.
Not much else to know - just do the usual checks and servicing and it'll last. You can keep the unpainted plastics looking fresh with Amor All Protectant or similar. :-)

Citycom 300 / Re: Citycom 300 front fork seals
« on: July 02, 2018, 09:09:53 PM »
I need to replace fork seals but original part from Sym are not available - I would have to wait about 3 weeks :|
Maybe someone knows the dimension of the seals so I could buy replacements from Ariete or Athena ?

Perhaps the seals from other 300 models fit? 91255LEA000 is the Citycom part number. Change LEA to HWA for the 250/300 GTS model - but they look a little different. My near side fork seal has a permanent leak. I've cleaned the seals a couple of times using a thin plastic tool but this no longer stops the leak. My SYM dealer, Oscar Motors, say they don't have any seals and told me to buy new suspension units at US$500 and wait 2 months for them to arrive. Comedians, obviously. I can't find any Citycom seals on Ebay or Amazon but there is a site that has them (in Greece?)


Quick update - she's done 40,000kms now and still doing great.


She needed a new rubber centre stand bumper at 28,000, which I made myself from a door stop. The original had fallen off. The original parts would cost $12.

The rear axle nut starting working loose so I added a split washer and that was fixed.

The brake light leds in the top box died so I replaced them. They died again and I couldn't find a fault (resistors blown? seems not) so I added a strip behind the red reflector and that's been fine.

The brake rear light switch went at 35,000kms so I got a new one for $11.

The rear brake lever goes soft - the first time this happened I did a brake fluid change but it happened again soon after and actually just needs pumping to get the air out. I suspect there is an air leak which will worsen but at the moment is fine.

Repairs have cost under $40 in 40,000kms! In the meantime, I would have needed 6 new air filters so the K&N has already saved me money too.

So, I highly recommend this scoot for easy reliable relaxed riding :-) Good job Sym!

6 month update :-)

She's just clocked 25,000kms and no problems. I really love this scoot's reliability. Day in day out, never an issue, just easy to ride and maintain. Good job SYM ! However, the bodywork is starting to loosen up and there is an occassional buzz from the front console. So not perfect ;-)

I replaced the belt at 21,870kms and since then the 20g Dr Pulley sliders have settled into a very consistent behaviour. I get 33.5km/l fuel economy up from 32km/l. Top speed is now 149kmh at 8,250 rpm instead of 145 @8,500 - the needle just touches 150 but not quite there! So close ;-) Highway cruising is dead on 100kmh at 6,000rpm which is 200 rpm less and 120kmh at 7,000rpm.

However, I suspect that 20g rollers (up from 18g standard) would have had this effect anyway, so I'm not convinced sliders are worth the extra money. Perhaps someone who has only increased roller weights can confirm?

All the best,

Citycom 300 / Re: CITYCOM 300 2016 ROLL OUT
« on: October 02, 2016, 04:54:20 AM »
Lucky you! I think the mk1 is a pretty awesome commuter and would lurve the S model if I could get one here. Please post some pics if you get time, and enjoy your ride ! :-)

Citycom 300 / Re: Senior Citizen Citycom Rolls Again
« on: May 22, 2016, 10:40:36 PM »
Sorry to hear about the injury.  :'(

Was the CC garaged while it was out of use? How long was it in storage? Did you prep it before leaving it idle? I have an XT660 I haven't used in 5 years sitting in a garage in the UK while I'm overseas. I prepped it thinking I'd be away for a year....  ::)

Citycom 300 / Re: Cut and modify the stock Citycom exhaust muffler?
« on: May 19, 2016, 10:32:40 PM »
Mikuni's page about pops is pretty darned good for carb bikes. With FI bikes, the system is closed so it can adapt to small changes, but not to large changes, so the mixture needs to go richer by tricking or modifying the system.  You can get the FI set richer by taking it to a SYM dealer and they can plug in the handheld monitor. The monitor also allows them to change the FI a little.

Citycom 300 / Re: Tyres for Citycom
« on: May 14, 2016, 02:57:55 AM »
I have mixed tyres too but it seems the rear "Kingstone" is actually a copy of the Maxxis but much cheaper (US$25 for a 140/70/16 Kingstone). It runs slightly warmer than the Maxxis, and is equally poor in the wet, but apart from that, it does the job - with a new Maxxis on the front and a new Kingstone on the rear, the turn in is progressive and smooth, it's stable in turns, it turns quite quickly, and with hands off, the front wobble is minimal. No idea about longevity yet - done about 1,000kms so far. The original Maxxis lasted about 18,000kms and although I do a lot of highway riding, the rear wasn't squared off, just slow to turn.

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 9