Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - GrumpyUnk

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: That was a trip !!
« on: August 22, 2021, 06:43:25 PM »
 Holy cow.  Do you ever get off that thing?  About 600 miles/wk is a good long ride in my book.  I think my butt would be sore.  Keep it shiny side up.
 I'm about 5 years behind, don't know if I'll catch up.

 Vertical and above ground!!
tom

2
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: 2015 sym wolf 150 classic
« on: July 30, 2021, 07:52:05 PM »
 The ONE thing that moves is the ignition switch when you kill it and then go to start it.  I would take a close look at the switch(and wires close by/the multi-pin connector) and see if there is something loose.
tom

3
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Valves
« on: June 11, 2021, 05:41:46 PM »
 Papa You are correct.  Brain fade now and again with vintage.  The CB is the OHC design, which is what the Wolf has.  Duh.  CG is the 'rocker arm engine' that is close in design, but not as rev-happy as the CB.  The CSC SG250 San Gabriel has a CG250, and it seems more torque happy than the CB(yeah, I know it has more displacement)
tom

4
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Valves
« on: June 05, 2021, 05:57:02 PM »
 There is a link on-site referencing the Honda manual for the CG125.  The Wolf is based on that, and the Honda service manual should have instructions.
tom

5
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Wolf Classic EFI problems starting
« on: February 07, 2021, 11:43:06 AM »
 As far as I know, the Classic 150 has a carburetor.  Unless you are in Taiwan, or possibly Europe, the have carburetors.
 Oh, checked your profile and you ARE.
 If you mean 'push button start', not working reliably, then I would check the battery state of charge.  A '12v battery' will actually be closer to 13v when charged fully. Each cell produces 2.1V, so a six cell battery fully charged should be ~12.6v.  You can also check battery voltage with the engine running, and it should be over 13v, most charging systems running in the 14v range, possibly up to 14.6v.  Over that is a bit too much, and will cook the battery, and possibly boil off the electrolyte.
 Auto batteries will maintain over or close to 10V even when the starter motor load is present, as in while cranking the engine.
 You may not have enough voltage to run the EFI system, causing the CEL warning.  Low or below threshold voltage will likely cause a CEL to be lit.
tom

6
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: SYM Classic 150 converted to CG250
« on: January 27, 2021, 06:20:57 PM »
Hey Mister!!
 I realize this is an oldish thread, but interests me so here goes.

 Did you ever get on the road?  Do you have a pic of the finished product?  How did it work out in comparison to the original?  What sprockets did you use - factory or different?
tom

7
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Merry Christmas !!
« on: January 01, 2021, 09:56:47 AM »
Happy New Year to all, and enjoy 2020 hindsight...

8
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Sym Wolf SB125 NI Sprocket
« on: November 01, 2020, 04:20:06 PM »
Maybe here:

https://goparts.eu/en/genuine-oem/sym/motorcycle/wolf-sb125ni-l8-eu/2018/rear-rem-rear-wheel

 They show the parts at least.   Cam Purvis at scooterseals.com may have access
to other Sym parts.
tom

9
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Bike dying upon startup
« on: October 21, 2020, 04:24:01 PM »
 Use a flat-blade screwdriver and unscrew the drain at the bottom of the carburetor float bowl a couple turns.  If there is fuel in the bowl, it will drain out the tube attached to the float bowl onto the ground.  If fuel is lacking you won't get any to fall onto the ground.  The vacuum operated petcock could be failing and starving the carb & engine of fuel.
 Other than that, get a spare spark plug, disconnect the plug wire, jam the spare into the plug wire socket, crank the engine and watch for spark.  The shell/body of the plug should be resting on the engine fins for ground, or you won't get spark at all.
tom

10
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Dim headlights
« on: October 21, 2020, 08:47:36 AM »
 I do not ride at night for the most part, so don't know how bright or dim the factory headlight bulbs are in general.  But, there are multiple LED options available that use less current to generate even more light.  I think.  But, again, the LED must be constructed so that its output is at the center of the reflector.  Just stuffing a bazillion LEDs into a 'bulb' doesn't do much good, except to light up the clouds, cows, and everything along side the road, while maybe lighting what is ahead.  It must be focused properly or all is wasted.
 If you look at the bulb assembly, you should be able to discern that it is 'keyed' so that it fits into the reflector only one way.  Any LED to replace that should also be keyed to insure the light developed is going to be reflected properly.
 You do not want to overdraw the circuit as it could blow a fuse or melt the insulation, and you would need room inside the headlight for the LED socket if you went that way.  Perhaps additional lighting, external to the factory, would be a better solution.  Look for auxiliary driving lights or headlights.  There are many on the market, and there are models that can be mounted to the handlebars.
 A CSC RX3 rider on the CSC group on facebook living in TX recently posted about his added lights that he was very pleased with.
tom

11
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: rear sprocket source
« on: October 21, 2020, 08:30:01 AM »
 I think I would contact them to verify their pricing.  Somehow I got the impression that their custom work was not so high.  I don't know sprocket terminology so could not tell what was/was not needed to make a usable sprocket.  IOW, I had/have no idea what 'features' are required and which are optional.  That's why I suggest emailing them with a query to see if you have checked all the right boxes, or could skip a few.  I kinda sorta don't want to learn that stuff right now...
tom

12
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: rear sprocket source
« on: October 20, 2020, 12:32:27 PM »
Did you go here:

https://www.shop.pbisprockets.com/product.sc?productId=551

 I did not fill it out, but for the indicated cost, seems very attractive.
You do need to provide specifics on center hole, bolt hole position & diameter, thickness and number of teeth(and size...)
tom

13
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Finding parts and keeping my bike safe
« on: October 11, 2020, 07:33:19 PM »
 Most bikes from the FE have either 8mm or 10mm thread mounting holes for the mirrors.  You can source from daBay or daRiver and get something you like.  The mirrors on the end of the handlebar are nice if you have a problem seeing who/what is behind you using the standard mirrors.  Again a local shop or the above two are reasonable sources.
 I would get a cover as it will slow down the casual jerk who is jealous that someone has a nice machine and they have been deprived of same.  A cover will also make hopping on in the AM a nicer experience as your incidence of wet butt will decrease due to the dew being on the cover instead of the seat.  Even a tarp from HF helps keep things dry, and will help to protect the plastics from UV damage(I think) and keep the seat vinyl from aging as quickly.
 I bought an el-cheapo disk brake lock from aliexpress.  It will not stop anyone determined to swipe your bike, but will slow down the goofs that will steal/re-position/move your bike 'just to be jerks'.  It is harder to move when the front wheel is at an angle(locked) and the wheel cannot rotate(rotor lock).  It does take conscientious effort to put the cover on and to remember to put the lock in the rotor.
 I knew a MelissaAC at PU back in the day, a PiPhi.
tom

14
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Wolfie is Finished!
« on: September 24, 2020, 12:13:50 PM »
Luna, a trick that may help to remove the old grips is to use compressed air.  Get a air nozzle that spits compressed air in a small area, generally used to blow off parts, or clean shavings, etc.  Direct it towards the close end of the grip, so the air can get inside the grip.  It will tend to 'blow up' or expand the grip, or at least break it loose from the handlebar.  With the air flowing, direct it around the sides, top and bottom to insure the grip has at least moved, then attempt to slide the grip off the handlebar.  You may find a youtube example of doing this task.
tom

15
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Removing the carburetor
« on: September 14, 2020, 09:50:37 PM »
 I am not much above sea level, but have not pulled the plug recently to check if I need to richen up a bit.
 What makes you think it is a bit lean?  Temperature?  Noise?  Spark plug looks 'bone white' with NO color?  Melted electrode(center or side)?
 Peer down the center, and look at the center ceramic insulator.  It should have a 'ring' of color per the 'experts' that indicates how rich/lean it is running.  The further down, the richer, as I understand.  Guys talk about a 'spark plug chop' where they run hard, cut power, coast to a stop, pull the plug and inspect.  I think they use a new plug, FWIW.  It should show how it is currently running via the circle on the center insulator.  So they say.  I have not tried.
You could raise the needle in the slide, I think, though have not tried.  That would set the mixture a step richer across the board in the mid to high range, but the main jet limits more at the higher end.
 I expect somewhere someone has gotten a 'performance' carb on one of these bombas, and has added 10% hp/torque and raised the top end a dozen mph.  Maybe.  I think the exhaust doesn't need a thing, and the emissions 'stuff' doesn't hurt anything, so all that's left is a bigger/perf carb.  I think.
tom

Pages: [1] 2 3