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Messages - Thoppa

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1
General Discussion / Re: CruiSYM 300
« on: July 06, 2021, 08:37:31 PM »
Aha. I did wonder what a cross-head was doing as a clamp bolt - it would be far too easy to round off the slots with the torque needed. It's quite hard to round out an allen head though, and I assume the head of the bolt is recessed too, so you can't get mole grips on it, or use an angle grinder to cut a slot in it. So you can try an imperial oversized allen key or a torx key, and hammer in the key. I'm guessing you don't have a screw extractor tool, or welding gear, or metal-based epoxy glue so those aren't options. Like you, I wouldn't bother trying to drill it out - it'll still be very hard to remove - and repairing the shape using needle files will take too long too.

I replaced that allen bolt with a regular raised hex head some time ago, but that was because the threads in the fork had been damaged - it didn't feel good when tightening it up - like it was ready to turn too easily, not tighten up. So I used an extra long bolt to reach into deeper threads, with a thick washer under the head. The washer helps distribute the load - essential because the recess in the fork for the allen head creates a gap under the washer, so the washer has uneven load across it - hence it needs to be thick steel. Without the thick washer, the bolt's head would experience the uneven load and would be more likely to fail in time. Stress will concentrate around the base of the head, and it will work on microscopic cracks, leading to catastrophic failure - the head will shear off. With the washer, it should be fine for the load, but it's not ideal. If I could get a longer allen bolt I would.

2
General Discussion / Re: CruiSYM 300
« on: July 02, 2021, 04:07:38 AM »
Hi,

You can also try large mole grips / locking pliers / grip wrench - this has worked for me sometimes - if you don't want to wait. 

And I've also used an angle grinder to cut a slot in the head of the bolt so I can use a slot-head screwdriver on it however, this can go horribly wrong (head shears off if the slot goes too deep) and from what you say, there probably isn't clear access for the angle grinder.

3
General Discussion / Re: SYM MASK (50cc EURO4 Faults)
« on: June 29, 2021, 10:16:30 PM »
I think the biggest collection of SYM mnuals is here
https://www.manualslib.com/brand/sym/motorcycle.html

It's quite likely that the engine is the same as other 50cc scoots of the same year so you can try another model, same year?

Most of the manuals have fault codes in them, although some are easier to follow than others.

4
General Discussion / Re: Do SYM scooters use a GY6 engine??
« on: June 26, 2021, 11:03:36 PM »
Hi Cibby,

I have seen a ton of GY6 parts on Taoabo but it seemed to me that they weren't all for the same engine, with some for a 125 and some for a 150, a 200 and a 250. Here's an Alibaba version showing different engines with GY6 tags.
https://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/engine-gy6.html
So I googled it and found GY6 engines are not all the same it seems - GY6 is a common design with variations.
https://www.infobloom.com/what-is-a-gy6-engine.htm
So I think you've got some major work to find out if a part will fit or not. I found this page on engine unit codes - maybe it's a start?
Lets disect the code starting with the first digit:
(Digit #1) Corrasponds to the number of cylinders. All GY6 engines are single cylinder, so this number will always be 1.

(Digit #2 and #3) This is the bore size in metric millimeters, in the case of the 157QMJ, our bore is 57mm. Note that 57.4mm bore engines fall under the "57" designation.

(Digit #4) relates to the style of engine. All GY6 engines are designated "Q".

(Digit #5 and #6) The actual size of the engine. The second letter ascends consecutively for each 10cc. MB = 50cc, MC = 60cc, MD for a 70, MH = 110cc, MI = 125cc, MJ = 150cc

That is pretty much it for the standard codes stamped on most GY6 and other Chinese engines. We will add more information about manufacturer-specific codes as we find it out.

http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech-center/read/150cc/0/24/how-it-works-decyphering-gy6-engine-codes.html

5
General Discussion / Re: CruiSYM 300
« on: June 20, 2021, 08:24:19 PM »
Sorry to hear it died but at least you weren't far from home when it did, and breakdown recovery is a wonderful thing! I can't believe Honda are telling you to wait a month. It's probably corrosion that could be fixed in under an hour.

Many years ago, I was touring in France on a Yamaha YZF600 and the gearbox died in the middle of nowhere. I waited six hours for the RAC recovery vehicle, and my Yamaha took 3 days to fix. A bolt had worked loose, that was all - no parts required. Thankfully, the RAC arranged a hire car for me as part of the breakdown cover, and I think they were calling the Yamaha garage to get the repair done quickly because of that. I was so thankful I had breakdown cover but 3 days just to  do a bolt ... I would be quite upset if they had told me a month. No wonder you don't want the machine anymore. Which Honda dealer is it?  Have you posted this on a popular site? Sometimes the negative PR can induce a company to get their arse in gear.

6
Citycom 300 / Re: Only use 35 watt H4 bulbs or bad things happen
« on: June 19, 2021, 03:24:58 AM »
Hi,

Why do the bulbs blow - is it just too hot and dry there? Dirt/Sand on the bulbs's glass concentrating heat?

I changed to 10W LEDs so I haven't had any problems. But the change wasn't straightforward because there is a "headlight control unit" that requires a significant current drain to turn on, and 10W was not enough, so I had to replace the HCU with regular automotive relays. So if you do decide to get LEDs, get some high wattage ones, making sure they'll fit as the OP noted! 

7
I hope it works!


8
General Discussion / Re: New-ish SYM scooters?
« on: June 07, 2021, 05:58:21 PM »
Yikes! Europe has annual emissions tests - my bike in the UK is an XT660R 2005 - it is one year too old to be allowed to go into London's ULEZ for free - 12.50 a day. The same bike in 2006 was certified Euro 3 so it doesn't have a fee. How dumb is that. https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone/ways-to-meet-the-standard

Hong Kong has only one measurement, when it is registered, and 2 wheelers are never tested again for anything, not even roadworthiness. However, the Police can simply notify riders that they think the machine does not look roadworthy and then we must get it tested.

In a way, you're lucky there's no testing, but it means, same as here, we'll be the last to get the new versions.

9
General Discussion / Re: New-ish SYM scooters?
« on: June 07, 2021, 06:00:22 AM »
Frustrating eh? But I don't think anywhere gets all the models on SYM's site? I know UK, Taiwan and China get a limited range too - I tried to get a Citycom in Taiwan on a trip a few years ago but it's export only. The Hong Kong importer here briefly had two 16"wheel models 12 years ago but they didn't sell well so they stopped importing them and refused to order a new one for me.

Hong Kong has the TL500, Cruisym 300, Joymax Z 300, Joyride 200, Jet 180 (cos it's made in China) and DRG 160. It seems 3 of these models have been refreshed/replaced - the TL500, Cruisym and Joymax Z - and the Z+ is now available in Europe but it's not available here. We don't have Euro5 and SYM said we won't get the Z+ for another 3 to 9 months - that sounded to me like they'll keep selling the Z until stocks are fully depleted. 

Since my Citycom is running well again tho, I don't mind the wait. I'd buy another CC if I could but I simply cannot get one. I've just come to accept it. One of the reasons I'll get the Z+ is that the Z is one of the models sold in China so I'll be able to get parts without getting ripped off by the importer here.

10
General Discussion / Re: New-ish SYM scooters?
« on: June 05, 2021, 09:57:57 PM »
Hi,

Has the US adopted Euro 5 standards or its own version of them? If not, then I guess it's likely it'll be the main market for the Euro 4 versions, while Europe gets all the refreshed Euro 5 models this year. Euro 5 came into effect for existing models 6 months ago I think, and the SYM range has been refreshed for this, as with many motorcycle companies, so Europe has been getting a load of refreshed versions of existing machines this year.

11
General Discussion / Re: New-ish SYM scooters?
« on: June 05, 2021, 08:53:04 PM »
Hi
rang motogb the uk importer and aked if there was any intention to bring the Z+ or cruisym alpha to the UK, they said no at the moment unless SYM agree an attractive price agreement

Hi

Good news - the Z+ is available for order on the MotoGB website - the 300 is 4999 +OTR - blue, white, silver, or black. How does that compare with the price of the Z?
https://www.symuk.co.uk/index.php/buy-online/2021-sym-joymax-z-300cc-893

The dealer here in HK still doesn't know, so I contacted SYM directly in Taiwan and they said last quarter this year, maybe first quarter next year. Um.

12
General Discussion / Re: Maxsym 400i
« on: June 05, 2021, 05:34:26 AM »
Hi,

Welcome to the forum!

What are you planning to use the scooter for - urban rides? commuting? long distances? How much does gas cost where you are? I'm asking because I'm a fan of the 300s - an ideal compromise imo, unless gas is very cheap where you are.

all the best,

13
General Discussion / Re: Changing cylinders - anyone done it?
« on: June 04, 2021, 08:12:10 PM »
One month later... and still no leaks or problems of any kind. :-)

The ring replacement has restored engine power so the top speed is very similar to what it used to be as a low mileage machine. The engine is noticeably smoother and quieter. So far, she is not using much, if any, oil so I guess no top up will be needed between changes. The fuel economy is almost back to normal too - she was as low as 28km/l before the new rings, and now is a little over 30km/l so far, instead of the long-term average of 32km/l. I've been giving her more WOT than I used to - perhaps the camshaft has affected the bottom end power so I'm more inclined to give her lots of gas. Not sure.

Anyway, the ring replacement is a success - it's done a good job of renovating the worn engine. I wonder for how long...

14
Hi,

It's the lack of a mechanical drawings for the forks, in the service manuals or the parts fische, that I find annoying. I was just left to guess and try, and you are in the same situation. When I contacted the dealer, they didn't even know if seals were available - they wanted to sell me a complete fork "cushion". It's not that expensive but far more than just seals.

The only other issue I have with the 250/300 scooters is the lack of an oil pressure sensor.

However, the rest has been great and I'll likely buy another SYM to replace this one.

15
Hi,

My SYM doesn't have a circlip inside the top of the leg - just a plastic cap sealed into the stanchion - which seems to be what you have too - no clear method of disassembly - and that's why I looked for another way to do it.

The upper half of the fork leg, the stanchion, has a circlip at the top on the outside - that's to ensure the fork leg mounts correctly into the steering clamp. But I couldn't find a circlip or anything inside the top. It seems they haven't followed other designs I'm familiar with.

Most cheap motorcycle forks use a bolt at the bottom to hold the damping tube/rod in place. It can be hard to remove - needs a shock torque, for example, from an impact driver. To separate the upper and lower parts of the fork (the lower leg from the upper stanchion), you have to aggressively pull the two apart with repeated force. But with the SYM, you just undo the bolt at the bottom and it freely disassembles. I actually found this disassembly easier to do than a motorcycle fork, and it's easier to change the seals. If I remember correctly, I removed the lower drain/assembly bolt with the fork upside down, using an impact driver. Then turned it right way up to drain the oil out of the hole where the bolt was. I seem to remember that the two halves are ready to fall apart so be careful when you turn it right way up - the two halves can slide apart just cos of their weight. After draining, slide the two halves apart, and remove the dust cap, circular retaining clip (check the clip isn't rusting - the rust can cause grit that damages the seal), then remove the old seal (and note the washer below it). Then I fitted new seals, reassembled, and then turned the fork upside down again to partly fill the fork with ATF through the hole where the lower drain/assembly bolt goes - do that slowly cos it won't flow fast through the hole. Then bolted it... and it's finished :-)

My SYM has an 8mm hex head on the drain/assembly bolt and I used 120ml of ATF in each leg. I also fitted gaitors after the change so the seals will stay cleaner for longer and I don't have to do that job again. And so far, about 18 months, so good. Here's my post about it: https://symforum.com/index.php?topic=12195.msg46460#msg46460

BTW, if it is a small leak, you may not need new seals - just cleaning the dirt out can be enough if the seal is in good condition. There are tools to do this such as:

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z0k.7385961.0.0.464f43f17UNYdL&id=549961051963&_u=t2dmg8j26111

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