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Messages - pacnwfoto

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 15
1
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Wolf Sporadically Dying at Stops
« on: October 22, 2013, 03:07:40 PM »
It sounds like you over-filled the tank and got the charcoal wet in the EVAP canister.

2
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Handlebar Update
« on: October 20, 2013, 10:19:58 PM »
.... it might be better if I could get some additional weight into the handlebars to help cut down vibrations....

Did you possibly over-tighten the handlebar-mount rubber grommets?  If not, check the motor mounts and valves.  My bike, with handlebar mod, is quite smooth.

3
Wolf Classic 150 / Wolf for sale in Seattle
« on: October 19, 2013, 11:15:10 AM »
The last one to appear months ago on Craig's List was at a dealer in Auburn.  This one is out near Green Lake at Aurora Suzuki.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcd/4137179377.html

4
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: SC Wolf
« on: October 12, 2013, 12:28:54 PM »
Doesn't the Wolf have a petcock with "On," "Off," "Reserve,"? ...

Vacuum petcock with 'low fuel' light.  IMO, a manual petcock would be an upgrade.

5
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Wolf gear thread
« on: October 09, 2013, 11:27:54 PM »
...  has a magnetic base.....

A word about magnetic tank bags.  I've used them on numerous bikes and over time they will mar the paint's clear coat.  Usually, the marring can be rubbed out with liquid automotive cleaner wax, but it's a hassle.  The fix is to cut a piece of static vinyl to place under the tank bag.  This is the same material used to make the annoying clingy windshield stickers reminding you when to get the next oil change.  ::)  Except that it is heavier gauge and will last for years under the bag.  The stuff is quite flexible and can be burnished down with a cloth to cling to the tank's contour.  It will stay in place when you pull off the bag or wash the bike, yet lift free it you want to remove it.  I cut mine to be about 1/4"~3/8" larger all around than the bag's footprint, including its side flaps, to allow some slack when placing/replacing the bag.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/grafix-static-cling-sign-vinyl/

6
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Extra lighting - electrical system Q's...?
« on: September 24, 2013, 01:16:09 PM »
...Wouldn't that mean 1 amp x 12 volts = 12 watts?  That wouldn't power the 35 watt headlight bulb alone.

That is a 12 watt output above the draw from the headlight on high beam.  So, it appears that the Wolf's system has no head room for electrical accessories.

Keeping in mind the Wolf's battery has 7 amp capacity, if the draw isn't too heavy and the trip isn't too long, extra lights could work.  Some of my bikes have been dual-sport types with weak charging systems like the Wolf.  In the cold months I use an electric vest which draws around 65 watts, and it exceeded the DS bikes recharging output.  Using a Battery Tender overnight compensated for the draw down and made the 'warm' commute happen.

7
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Extra lighting - electrical system Q's...?
« on: September 24, 2013, 01:15:11 AM »
Per my Wolf info, charging begins at 2100 rpm.  With the headlight 'on' the charge rate is .4A at 2500 rpm and it reaches 1 amp at 6K revs.

8
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Kickstand question
« on: September 17, 2013, 02:51:11 PM »
Last, gitsum must be "extra ept"...  ;D

If you guys are making fun of me you'll have to spell it out....

Ept:
Creative fortitude. Having no fear of power tools, internal engine parts, or the Federalis.  The ability to question authority and go where no man has gone before; modify at will. 

[def not in Webster ;-) ]

9
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Kickstand question
« on: September 16, 2013, 03:12:10 PM »
That must be an all-American idea....

Yes, the rubber sidestand widget is intended to fold the stand if you ride off with it extended.  That all-American stroke of genius was the end result of our Tort legal system.  One or more inept wankers hurt themselves and found lawyers to sue the manufacturer, so the entire population of 313 million had a change imposed upon them.  Maybe SYM, after noticing that millions of motorcyclists survived many decades of riding without a rubber-nipple sidestand, decided to spare the expense of adding it. 

Tort: A civil wrong which unfairly causes someone else to suffer loss or harm resulting in legal liability for the person who commits the tortious act.

10
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Cautionary Tale #2
« on: September 10, 2013, 08:37:58 PM »
Bar end weights for $100?? I don't find the vibes that bad with the stock weights they just don't want to stay on the bike. I'll try oots' remedy first.

Before using ootscoot's process, swab out the tube with lacquer thinner to remove the soft cement and any oil contamination.  After sanding, wash it again with the solvent.  Also wash the rubber.  That should prevent another loose weight.

11
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Cautionary Tale #2
« on: September 09, 2013, 08:44:01 AM »
...By putting rubber to metal the glue never dries.....

Apply a light coat of 'contact cement' to the screw [only].  Let thoroughly dry to it's hard rubber state before assembly.



12
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Tires
« on: September 06, 2013, 07:45:47 PM »
.....i'd say the stock tires stick quite well. As far as in the rain I don't know yet.

The OEM Cheng Shin's tire compound does a good job handling the neck-snapping performance from the 149cc engine in the corners, even on wet pavement.

13
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: The Carburetor Thread
« on: September 02, 2013, 07:38:11 PM »
I've seen several people write about re-jetting their bikes, adjusting the mixture, etc...,

Unless you run a straight pipe or hollow muffler and open up the airbox, the stock carburetor should not need rejetting.  There is plenty of flexibility with slide-needle height adjustments, and the airscrew, to fine tune carburetion.


...The float bowl can be removed with the carb on the bike, but you need a stubby screwdriver as well as a long-shank to reach the 3 screws which hold on the bowl. Regarding these screws: they are *crap*. The metal they are made of is very soft, and the head slots for a Phillips screwdriver are too shallow for the bit width....

Did you use a JIS Phillips screwdriver bit of the correct size with an impact screwdriver?

14
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: SC Wolf
« on: August 27, 2013, 09:08:34 PM »
...Are you using the narrow or the wide version?

I prefer the wide CB2. 

Before the patent dispute, the original pre-Velcro Throttle Rocker was sold in the US.  It was the evolution of the CrampBuster and had a contoured ergonomic palm shelf.  They are apparently still made in the U.S, but now sold in Australia.  Get one on Oz eBay if you can http://www.ebay.com.au/ .  They are the best, IMO.

http://throttlerocker.com/
http://tinyurl.com/owjgj5l

15
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: SC Wolf
« on: August 27, 2013, 12:19:13 PM »
....some of the Crampbuster reviews mentioned that it slid around and didn't work so well,...

That is what makes it good.  It has spring-like tension which grabs the rubber grip.  Because of the shape it can be rotated forward to adjust its position.  Pressing down on it increases tension and it stays in place.  This makes it easy to fine tune its position, even while riding.   If you locate it too high so it makes throttling too sensitive, just rotate it forward around the grip and reposition.  The Velcro unit needs the strap loosened to alter the ergos and fine tuning is a frustrating fiddle.  I don't use my Crampbuster around town, it isn't needed in traffic, so its stored in the tank bag.  When I'm heading out on a long, fast ride where the throttle is held open most of the time, I can slip it over the grip and get it dialed literally in a few seconds.  If someone is having slippage trouble, they might be using the wrong size Crampbuster.  Or, if they ride bare-handed a lot, the rubber grip may need a wash.  Neither of these throttle devices are expensive, so you can taste both flavors and choose what works best for you.   :)

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