Author Topic: Air/ Fuel Screw  (Read 11296 times)

BcKc

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 18
    • View Profile
Air/ Fuel Screw
« on: January 05, 2011, 04:38:57 PM »
FYI:

This topic is a carry over from a thread in the "General Discussion" folder of the forum.

I recently went to adjust my air/ fuel screw because my Symba was running lean.  Found out that the screw was cemented down and the head of the screw had been shaved off.  I messed with the screw for about an hour and finally resorted to drilling it out with a screw extractor; this obviously ruined the screw.  The point is, I found a readily accessible source for a new screw so if any of you Symba owners are running lean and want to replace the screw so it is adjustable, you can do so without having to deal with trying to source a part from Canada.

The Kawasaki KFX 50 model years 2007-2010 uses the same carb.  You can order a new screw from your local dealer or just about any motorcycle/ atv parts store on the web.  These same dealers are also a great source for jets that can fit the Symba's carb, if you are looking to re-jet.  Just thought I would share this info...

mswrc

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 116
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2011, 08:13:12 PM »
Thanks for the information.  I will probably purchase one from RonAyers, it's less than $2 for the part and about $5 for shipping, but worth it. 

I am curious about re-jetting...  I was able to pick out the cement, cut a slot in the air fuel mixture screw, and adjust it.  I turned it a full turn richer.  The bike idles a bit better, but in this cold weather (30 degrees F) it still wants to stall when I come to a stop.  So the question is, will re-jetting help when it is so cold outside?  And if so, does anyone know what I should get?

In addition to this, has anyone needed to re-jet for normal operation, or does th Symba run fine in normal riding temperatures by just adjusting the A/F screw? 

thanks in advance.

TeamSym

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 49
    • View Profile
    • Team Symba
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2011, 01:17:18 PM »
Say, if you wouldn't mind, would you post the part number for that replacement air screw (the Kawasaki part number would do).  I note that the part number for the whole carb is 15004-Y002.

Morgan

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 109
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2011, 05:27:40 PM »
EDIT: This appears to be the wrong part! See post farther down in this thread for correct part number.


I can't say for sure, but I'd bet $2 that it's 23013-Y001. In the diagram (see: http://tinyurl.com/4qczkze ) there's only two possible screws that it could be. One is labeled "SCREW-THROTTLE STOP" which sounds like idle speed adjustment to me. The other is labeled "SCREW-ASSY,ADJUST" and it's shown at an angle, just as it would be when inserted into the carburetor assembly.

   -Morgan
« Last Edit: February 23, 2011, 04:06:40 PM by Morgan »

BcKc

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 18
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2011, 05:30:05 PM »
Yup, Morgan is correct.  The Kawasaki part number for the part I got is 16014-S004 and it fits and works perfectly although I think it might be the screw from a different carb, not sure, this is just what the Kawi dealer ordered for me when I asked for the screw to a KFX-50.

Also, to answer the question from MSWRC:  You shouldn't have to rejet.  It takes some time and patience to tune the bike correctly.  If you adjust the a/f screw you will probably have to adjust the idle screw too until it runs just right.  If you keep at it long enough, you will get there!

mswrc

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 116
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2011, 03:01:58 PM »
I'm glad to know that.  I will keep on working on the adjustments. 

ootscoot

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1520
  • Another Dealer hard at work...
    • View Profile
    • ootyscooters.com
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2011, 11:10:47 PM »
The SYMBA does arrive a little lean. The A/F screw is cemented down - here in CA., CARB rejected the Symba for two years - one of the issues was the ability of the owner to "tamper " with A/F settings. (Most of the carbs have a brass cap over the A/F screw)...SYM Taiwan uses an epoxy to prevent "tampering"
We have been able to break this epoxy free, cut a notch and adjust the screw - but it doesn't always work - good to know of a source for replacements..
Ooty's Scooters - Santa Barbara, CA.
SYM Dealer, SYM rider, SYM owner - got them all!

mswrc

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 116
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2011, 07:08:43 PM »
Well, for whomever reads this thread... I wanted to save you a few bucks.  I ordered the part linked above from RonAyers, part number 23013-y001, and it was NOT the correct part.   :o  It is shorter and has finer threads than what was on my Symba.  So unless I have a different carb, it's not the right part. 

I searched for part number 16014-s004, and it is listed as "screw pilot air."  The cost is $5.38, which is cheap enough, so perhaps I will give that a try. 

Morgan

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 109
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2011, 04:05:13 PM »
Thanks for the tip! Kawasaki must have changed the carb. The previous link was to the part from a 2009 model. The number you mentioned, 16014-s004, is coming up on a 2003 model. Here's a link to the 2003 one for everyone: http://tinyurl.com/4j3quoq

   -Morgan

gburnstein

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 33
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2012, 03:49:54 PM »
Question#1  What did you use to remove the epoxy. My 2010 does not have a brass cap...just a blob of grey epoxy running from hole down side of carb.

Question #2:  I also ordered a 23013-y001.  It is not slotted. Looks like it requires a special tool. Screw has a cylidrical top that has one side flattened. If you look down from the top... looks like a "D" maybe 1mm tall. Fine threads add another 4mm then tapered brass shaft is another 14mm
Screw total = 20mm and comes with 8mm x 4mm spring

Once out... anyone have a startring point for screwing in and backing out (i.e. # turns)

Anyone able to measure an original undamaged one out of the Symba?
Thanks
GB

ootscoot

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1520
  • Another Dealer hard at work...
    • View Profile
    • ootyscooters.com
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2012, 09:45:48 PM »
I use an epoxy/paint stripper gel - just Dab some on and let sit for a few min. Then I use a sharp probe to scrape out the epoxy.
The screw is D shaped, I made a tool out of a piece of copper tubing with the same diameter and bent in a section to make a tab. I used to grind a slot for a screwdriver, but looked bad.
I think I run it out two turns - dab a tad of silicone to help hold it in place
Ooty's Scooters - Santa Barbara, CA.
SYM Dealer, SYM rider, SYM owner - got them all!

ootscoot

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1520
  • Another Dealer hard at work...
    • View Profile
    • ootyscooters.com
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2012, 09:40:13 AM »
Recently 3 of the Symbas that I "unstuck" the A/F screw have come into the shop - hard to start, stalling at stops, running poorly...turns out the unstuck A/F screw had vibrated out a few turns...now I put a dab of silicon to hold them in place.
Ooty's Scooters - Santa Barbara, CA.
SYM Dealer, SYM rider, SYM owner - got them all!

gburnstein

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 33
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2013, 01:34:02 AM »
Here's a picture of the Idle Adjustment Screw and the left handed drill bit I used to replace it. There is an exact replacement for this part in the Kawasaki KSF90 (07-09) carb repair kit#1003-0218   Screw and spring
...  but the air mixture screw is shorter and has finer threads

gburnstein

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 33
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2013, 11:44:40 AM »
Question#1  What did you use to remove the epoxy. My 2010 does not have a brass cap...just a blob of grey epoxy running from hole down side of carb.

Question #2:  I also ordered a 23013-y001.  It is not slotted. Looks like it requires a special tool. Screw has a cylidrical top that has one side flattened. If you look down from the top... looks like a "D" maybe 1mm tall. Fine threads add another 4mm then tapered brass shaft is another 14mm
Screw total = 20mm and comes with 8mm x 4mm spring

Once out... anyone have a startring point for screwing in and backing out (i.e. # turns)

Anyone able to measure an original undamaged one out of the Symba?
Thanks
GB


here is a comparison of the original and the Ron Ayers part mentioned that fits the same threads... Significantly shorter and different tip... Having a hard time finding the proper depth


gburnstein

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 33
    • View Profile
Re: Air/ Fuel Screw
« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2013, 07:57:43 PM »
Recently 3 of the Symbas that I "unstuck" the A/F screw have come into the shop - hard to start, stalling at stops, running poorly...turns out the unstuck A/F screw had vibrated out a few turns...now I put a dab of silicon to hold them in place.

I finally got my epoxied stock air/fuel mixture screw removed, replaced and a running bike!!!  As I revved the engine, the air/fuel mix screw started to vibrate out. Apparently the newer bikes must come with a shorter air/fuel mixture screw spring. The replacement screw and spring came from my dealer. When I pulled out the new spring and compared to original (older 2010 model) The older was a few mm longer and definitely held the screw where you left it (as it should).  So the old one's in with the new screw... prob solved... but a dab of something to hold it in place is a great idea... thanks http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z195/gburnstein/air_fuel_screw2_zps25a51e2f.jpg