Author Topic: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC  (Read 7410 times)

mswrc

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De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« on: July 23, 2011, 01:34:25 PM »
I did this about 2000 miles ago, and was waiting to confirm that it didn

    (...And somehow the rest of what i wrote, the first time was deleted.  Gone, just like a country western song)
« Last Edit: January 10, 2013, 07:01:41 PM by mswrc »

allthetoast

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2013, 03:09:43 PM »
Can we get a repost of this information?
I can't find it anywhere and would very much like to desmog my bike.
3,000 miles
just went from washington to california.

LisaRae

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2013, 09:54:17 PM »
I think this is some of the info you'll need:

There are several tubes connected to the cannister (behind the left side panel), one is a vacuum line coming from the intake manifold (has white tape on ends), this one also connects at a T with the fuel petcock - if this one is disconnected, fuel will not be released...Another tube connected to the cannister where it says "to tank" - no white tape on end - is the gas tank vent tube and can siphon and fill the cannister (and then the vacuum lines and then the cylinder head) with fuel.
As a dealer I cannot recommend that you disconnect THIS tube from the cannister, but your bike will certainly run better if you do...

Check out ootscoot's posts/replies in other threads - he's a scooter dealer...

Best,
LisaRae

ootscoot

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2013, 08:52:49 AM »
I have found that removing ALL the smog stuff does not really affect performance. The most important alteration is to disconnect the gas tank vent from the carbon cannister - directly below the tank, behind the left side panel.
Ooty's Scooters - Santa Barbara, CA.
SYM Dealer, SYM rider, SYM owner - got them all!

mswrc

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2013, 05:30:35 PM »
Unfortunately what I wrote up mysteriously vanished.  It was quite a bit of work. 

What LisaRae is referring to you can find more details about on in this thread:   
http://symforum.com/index.php?topic=936.0
It addresses the evap canister nonsense etc not the AIC but it is where you should start.

The next step is the AIC.  It's simple really, the trick is that you can remove all that stuff, it doesn't really do anything, and it cleans up the bike a bit, looks wise.  I don't think it improves performance any, i just don't like all that garbage.  For those of you who may grimace because it "hurts the environment," it doesn't do much of anything at all.  Only when the bike is cold and idling does it actually function.  Even when it's 30 degrees out, for me that's about 10 seconds. 
« Last Edit: January 10, 2013, 05:37:23 PM by mswrc »

mswrc

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2013, 05:56:31 PM »
OK, here is my attempt to remember what i did. 

Below is a picture from the manual which shows the system and pretty much all the stuff you need to remove.  I think once you remove the leg shield it will be obvious.  The part labeled #1 is in the head.  Do not try to remove it.  Part #2 is a copper bushing of sorts.  You will be reusing that.  You may not realize it is copper.  Mine was black and looked like it was part of the metal tube.  Only when i looked at the diagram in the manual did i realize it's a bushing.  The rest of the stuff is trash. 




You can see in the picture below all the parts I removed. 



Below is the steel tube where the copper bushing was.  In this picture the bushing is gone, so it should help you recognize what part comes out.  Be careful as it is soft and can easily be marred.  You need it in as pristine condition as possible because you will use it to seal up the tube which sticks out of the head.  I used a needle nose pliers.  First i pulled the metal tongs/fingers a little apart.  Then carefully rocking the bushing back and forth, it came right out. 



The beauty or simplicity rather is that the external dimension of the bushing is an exact tight fit for a 1/2 inch copper cap, that can be purchased at any home store nation wide.  What you have to do is cut slots in the cap so that it will expand a bit to receive the bushing, and allow the hose clamp to actually squeeze the cover tight.  This cap isn't the one I cut, but if you look carefully you will notice lines in black marker indicating about how far down I made my slots.  I made four slots, which means two cuts with a hacksaw.   



This is what my concoction looks like on the bike.  I didn't have to force anything.  I inserted the bushing (part #2) into the copper cap first.  It needed a light tap with a hammer but not much force.  The cap easily slid onto the tube which comes out of the head.  The last thing to do was tighten up the new hose clamp.  That made the cap really tight.  I couldn't even twist it.  On my first ride I checked it quite a few times to be certain it didn't move.  A year and a half later i still check it periodically but i don't think it has moved at all.   



I don't think it made the bike faster, or anything like that.  It might have made it quieter, at least i remember thinking that at the time.  If you do it early enough it should keep your exhaust pipe from turning blue.  Other than that, it's just neater.  I like things neat. 

One final note.  Doing this may be illegal depending on where you live.  Like the Peoples Republic of California for example.  I don't really know one way or another.  It is not illegal where i live thus the reason i felt comfortable giving it a try.  Also if i thought it would have a significant impact on the environment i would not have done it.  I probably make more pollution on one trip to the grocery store with my car than i do in an entire year by making this change on the bike, which is why i ride my bicycle to the store.  ;D  I'm a shade tree mechanic, not an engineer so if there is anyone out there who actually knows otherwise, feel free to set me straight. 

Good luck. 
« Last Edit: January 10, 2013, 06:58:47 PM by mswrc »

Morgan

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2013, 12:47:53 PM »
Thanks for the write up. It looks like the bushing is part #4 not #2, though.

mswrc

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2013, 03:49:56 PM »
Oops.  Yep, you are right.

gburnstein

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #8 on: February 19, 2013, 11:30:41 AM »
Here's a link to a picture on the engine if it helps

Eatsleepsurf

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2013, 11:07:18 PM »
So I just removed the entire AIC system however my symba is idling much faster now. It will move in first gear w/o any throttle. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I need to break the a/f screw loose to adjust the idle speed?

Thanks in advance,
Richard

ootscoot

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2013, 02:21:07 AM »
The idle speed adjust screw is to the right of A/F screw- turn to left to lower idle speed
Ooty's Scooters - Santa Barbara, CA.
SYM Dealer, SYM rider, SYM owner - got them all!

mswrc

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2013, 06:22:53 PM »
I did not need to adjust a thing.

HJracing

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #12 on: April 24, 2013, 07:35:57 PM »
Mswrc I am taking my AIC off now. One question.The small rubber tube going to the intake manifold, do I plug it. You left that part off. Do you think Eatsleepsurf's  bike was sucking air at the intake opening and that made it idle up. Thanks
« Last Edit: April 25, 2013, 08:00:01 AM by HJracing »
(2002 Triumph Bonneville America)  (1999 TM 300 MX )  (2012 Symba ) (Former bikes: 1969 Honda SL 90, 1985 Kaw.1000 LTD, 1976 Yam.DT 250)  Motorize bicycle

mswrc

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2013, 08:58:14 PM »
Yes, you would need to plug that up. 

As for fast idling, it could be, but I would think it would make it idle slow or hesitate rather than fast idle...

turtle

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Re: De-Smogging, Removing the AIC
« Reply #14 on: July 08, 2014, 11:24:29 AM »
Hey mswrc,
How is the cap holding up? The way it is held on by just hose clamp looks kind'a dodgy to me. But I don't know any better solution.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2014, 12:58:12 PM by turtle »