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Messages - campurvis

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1
Symba / Re: Lost left side cover while riding
« on: November 09, 2017, 07:30:49 PM »
Had computer failure. It had to go to an IT technician's shop. Down completely for a few days. Rolling again now. Will get caught up quickly on email backlog.

2
Citycom 300 / Re: Steering wobble
« on: September 15, 2017, 02:44:55 AM »
A worn front tire (cupped tread) will also cause steering abnormalities.

3
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Parts/Accessories from Scooterseals - Worth it?
« on: September 13, 2017, 07:09:52 PM »
Sorry, I don't sell those  anymore. They were beautiful, but pricey, hand-made, stainless steel units.  I made just about zip on them but they were really nice.  The cost rose though so I discontinued them.  I thought about getting chrome-plated ones made out of mild steel, but to keep pricing in line I would have to get a huge batch made and the current market is simply far too small. The Math doesn't work.  If and when that changes i will revisit the issue.

4
HD200 / Re: Hurricane in Texas
« on: August 25, 2017, 10:22:00 PM »
That is an extremely dangerous storm by anyone’s tyfoon/hurricane standards...and so much low-lying land.  I wish people there the very best in a really tough situation. 

5
Symba / Re: Topping-up SYMBA's tires?
« on: August 23, 2017, 01:17:56 AM »
Obviously you’ve got a very tiny leak.  Could be a speck of dust on the seat of your tube’s valve core. Take it out with a valve core tool and clean it.  If you don’t have a valve core tool, many older motorcycles and bicycles used to come with a screw-on metal valve cap that was also such a tool.
If that doesn’t cure it, get a new valve core at a bicycle shop.  After that, the next suspect is a minute pin hole in the tube for whatever reason. Replace or patch the tube.

OR your tire has moved in relation to the rim and pulled your tube with it, but your tube’s valve stem is secured in place by the nut that secures it to the rim.  Thus the tube stretches there as the tube moves and trouble follows—meaning a new tube sooner or later—you can’t patch that one.

Regardless --throw that nut in the garbage where it belongs.  Then eyeball the valve every few weeks. If it is no longer at 90 degrees to the rim, put the bike on its centre stand, let the air out, lock up the brake and get a pal to give a mighty yank on  the tire to get everything back to a position on the rim where the valve stem sticks out perpendicular to the rim.  Add air and you're rolling again.


6
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: 5 days, 1767.5 km (1104.7 miles)
« on: August 16, 2017, 12:45:05 AM »
Great pics! Informative, interesting and well written story. Well done!

7
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Standard handlebars on Wolf
« on: July 24, 2017, 08:55:30 PM »
Clip-on bars were designed for use on high-speed, road-racing motorcycles.  They look great and are absolutely  awesome if you are 16-30 and/or have a bullet proof back and/or are consistently travelling at speeds over 70 mph where the force of the wind helps support your upper torso and relieves the stress load on your lower back and your forearms.  Unfortunately, most 150cc bikes don’t spend much time at that speed.  Some people can live just fine with clip-ons. Some can’t.  If you are a rider who can’t, your back will certainly let you know when it’s had enough.

8
HD200 / Re: Poor front brake performance?
« on: May 21, 2017, 08:16:11 AM »
It doesn't matter what kind of bike you have, the ratio between piston area in the brake lever master cylinder and piston area in the brake caliper cylinder, or cylinders (down by the wheel) is absolutely CRITICAL. Factory brakes have this all sorted out.
A mismatch, between lever area piston size  and wheel area piston/s size will either give you very weak brakes, or brakes that seem okay but can  unexpectedly lock up in an instant with little or no notice.  Both situations can be extremely dangerous.  Read up on brake science before you buy anything because there are several different master cylinder piston sizes available--same for down below--and advertisers seldom state this vital technical information.

9
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Looking for FORKS for the Wolf
« on: April 14, 2017, 06:37:12 PM »
Yes, in some cases (eg. slight bend) the inner tubes can be straightened. Disassemble the forks and take the chrome plated inner tubes to a machine shop with a reputation for high quality work.  They will know if it is safe to straighten the bend you’ve got.
If there is also a bend in the lower, cast aluminum fork legs—do not attempt to straighten the aluminum legs. Throw them in the garbage.  They are an accident waiting to happen. 

10
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Spring thaw
« on: March 31, 2017, 07:30:42 AM »
For over a decade the Taiwan domestic model Wolf has used cast aluminum wheels. Before that it was a chrome-plated, mild -steel rim  laced with steel spokes to a wheel hub. I have never seen an aluminum  rim laced up to a hub on a Wolf unless it was by someone with an older bike who bought aftermarket rims to replace their stock steel rims.  Perhaps things are different in the USA but I doubt it.

I think the problem with a lot of articles and documentation is that they are often ‘cut and paste' without much checking for accuracy.

11
RV250 / Re: How does the RV250 compare with the HD200?
« on: March 27, 2017, 09:04:06 AM »
I don’t know why the RV250 never caught on in N. America. Maybe it cost too much for that market after the bike switched to EFI    It was a great bike (sometimes called a GTS250 or Joymax in some countries) and went to EFI years ago—but all the mechanicals remained essentially the same and parts are not a problem here.  I have always regarded it as very well built and very reliable.  The bike now has a larger displacement (ie. RV/GTS300).  I have a customer who maintains a fleet of high mileage, fuel injected  GTS250s for parking wardens  in a city  in the S. Hemisphere.  They have worked out well there.  The big kicker is when you have an accident and need some of the larger body panels. They are huge and and international air  shipping is determined by pkg. volume rather than weight, which can get extremely pricey for large bulky items.  Shipping of mechanical parts is quite reasonable.

12
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: Clutchless shifting
« on: March 26, 2017, 08:58:55 AM »
Papa Bear is right.

Actually, clutchless shifting is not difficult if you back the throttle off a hair as you start to initiate the upshift, and downshifting can be done too if you blip the throttle a tad at exactly the right time as you shift.—but sometimes you won’t get it right (whether going up or down)and sooner or later you’ll end up either chipping  the edges of some gears or bending a shifting fork.  Then it’s complete tear-down time paying an experienced mechanic a lot of loot.  I'd advise you to stick with the clutch.

13
Symba / Re: Dies when shifting into gear
« on: March 19, 2017, 06:44:43 AM »
You might also want to check that there are no leaks (ie. pinholes, cracks, etc) in the vacuum line that runs from the manifold to the bottom nipple of the petcock beneath the gas tank. Perhaps also check to make sure there are no leaks at the engine manifold. (if you spray some diesel engine starter fluid on the outside of it where it meets either the cylinder or the carb and the idle speeds up, then you have a leak.--Do not spray that stuff around near any sparks or you will get a nasty surprise, and definitely don't do it indoors.  It is volatile.

14
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: lot's of issues
« on: March 10, 2017, 06:12:53 PM »
Good points Ktran. Also, the 125 manual had  an error in the section for testing the stator. I can supply updated stator testing info to anyone who needs it.

15
Wolf Classic 150 / Re: lot's of issues
« on: March 06, 2017, 09:56:46 AM »
You can download a service manual for the Wolf 125 from the home page of my website (www.scooterseals.com).  It's essentially the same engine as the 150 but with a smaller cylinder.(Cast iron bore--not ceramic lined).

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