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Messages - bbyrd

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Citycom 300 / Re: Removing a mirror (to mount a RAM mount)
« on: September 05, 2015, 03:06:34 PM »
I ended up doing a similar thing to sc00ter--after trying to buy a smaller OD 10mm socket (which, at 14.1mm OD was actually larger than the 13.4mm OD of the 10mm in my cheapo tool set), I took the angle grinder to my cheapo 10mm, to get it small enough to fit (~13.1mm OD--just for reference). The RAM mount is on, and I've tightened up both mirrors--they feel better than before, so I'll hold out on new mirrors for now (though $9 each is VERY reasonable--it's more the inconvenience factor of getting them up to Canada).

And yes, Sc00ter--it was the ones inside the mirror stalk--they are 10mm.

Thanks all!

Citycom 300 / Re: Removing a mirror (to mount a RAM mount)
« on: September 03, 2015, 03:10:15 PM »
Thanks sc00ter--are these the ones you got: ?

If anyone has any other ideas about how to undo the bolts (mine are't corroded like sc00ter's), I welcome all suggestions!


Citycom 300 / Re: Removing a mirror (to mount a RAM mount)
« on: September 03, 2015, 09:05:17 AM »
Hi Sc00ter,
Good to know--I seem to recall reading somewhere that it may be because some arrester pin (or something) is broken/corroded, but figured it was worth a try (or at least a look to see what's under there). However, I can't even get mine off (let alone tightened) right now. What did you use when you attempted to tighten them? Were you able to find a thin enough socket, or some other approach?


Citycom 300 / Re: Removing a mirror (to mount a RAM mount)
« on: September 03, 2015, 09:00:56 AM »
Hi shoupdawg,
Mounting on the reservoir could work--though it looks like those are countersunk screw heads (I'll have to check).

Citycom 300 / Re: CityCom Rear Rack - where to find in 2012?
« on: September 02, 2015, 05:47:35 PM »
Hi all - just a note to say that I was recently in Brazil and saw LOTS of CityComs, including some with the SCAM rack (it does look very nice), and a number of other rack types. These are pretty easily available from Brazilian on-line sellers (including the local eBay equivalent), but no availability in local (Rio) shops (I tried!)--looks like most manufacturing of them is done in Sao Paulo state. Doesn't look like any of the online sellers ship outside of Brazil unfortunately, but if anyone has local contacts, it is probably do-able.


Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: September 02, 2015, 05:41:46 PM »
Hi All,
I thought I'd already posted follow up on this, but I guess not. The relay was my issue, and my temporary zap-strapping of it to the frame kept it away from the exhaust, and no more problems. I had it mounted back to wherever it was supposed to be when I got the CityCom serviced recently. All good ever since!

Thanks again for everyone's input!


Citycom 300 / Removing a mirror (to mount a RAM mount)
« on: September 02, 2015, 05:31:28 PM »
Hi all,
I have a 2009 CityCom, and based on comments here and elsewhere, I recently bought a RAM mount for my phone (the type that mounts under the mirror stem: However, when I popped the cover off of the bolt-hole for the mirror stem (looks like the bolt/nut is a 10mm) my 10 mm socket won't fit down into the hole (which is only about 13mm diameter)--my 9mm socket fits in the hole but is (obviously) too small for the bolt.

I believe KiwiScoot (of scootdawg fame) had a similar issue, but other folks seem to have had no worries (maybe they have the new model with different mirrors).

Apparently there are such things as "thin wall" sockets, but the only 10mm ones I've found still have ~15m OD.

Anyone have ideas/suggestions about how to get my mirror off (and back on). Note that I'd also like to just tighten these bolts up, as my mirrors fold back under heavy gusts (like passing a big truck at highway speeds).


Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 09, 2015, 09:54:59 AM »
Thanks VERY much thoppa! Light wasn't great when I was looking at the wires, so I'm pretty sure you're right--greatly appreciated! I'll take a look today, and see if can find that mount point.

Thanks again all!

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 08, 2015, 08:44:55 PM »
Here's hoping!

Wires to the relay are purple, red/white and two red/yellow.

I'm wondering if it might be the fuel pump relay.

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 08, 2015, 06:54:09 PM »
So... after taking everything apart, and putting it all back together (and soldering a connection back in for the under-seat switch), I think I've identified the problem--though sheer dumb luck. While search under the scooter for a screw I'd dropped, I noticed something electrical looking resting quite near the exhaust, right underneath. Couldn't really get at it til I pulled away from the wall, and sat it on the side stand--then there it was.

 It is some type of relay (label says PILOT 12V 30A POWER RELAY). Its a black cube, with a flange out one end with a hole (no doubt to bolt/screw in to place somewhere), and a four-pin socket at the other end (which had a black plug in it). One corner of the relay in partly melted--either from proximity or from resting on the exhaust. So this explains my short-once-warm situation (hopefully)!

I will no doubt need to replace this eventually, but in the interim, I need to figure out where it bolts to, so I can get it staying in place. Given where I found it, and that it was tripping the ignition circuit, I thought it might be the starter relay, but it doesn't really look like what is shown as the starter relay in the service manual (has a green plug)--I saw this one under the seat when I had things apart.

So if anyone has any idea what this relay is (I should order a new one), but more importantly, where/how it's suppose to bolt into place, I'd be extremely grateful!

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 03, 2015, 04:53:23 PM »
Thanks ootscoot--I'm pretty sure it's not a headlight issue, as the headlights still come on when I turn on the key--the fuse that blows is on the ignition circuit--the one on the headlight circuit is fine. Thanks for the thought though.

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 03, 2015, 04:51:26 PM »
Thanks sc00ter--my pattern of fuse popping could be temperature correlated. I'll try patching things back together, and see if it pops right away or not. Re panels--you are right, they do seem pretty robust; the only things that are busted are some of the small locking tabs that hold the panels in place. I suspect someone did a poor job of removing panels (maybe when they did the wiring mods), rather than the scoot having been wrecked/laid down.

If it is temperature related, any thoughts on where/what the cause might be? What kind of thing could cause an engine temp related short on this circuit? Just check any wiring in the exhaust/engine/underseat area (I have done a moderately thorough visual inspection in there)?

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 02, 2015, 11:19:53 PM »
Thanks sc00ter! Re your questions--the short (if it is a short--we're just guessing at this point) results in a blown fuse on the ignition circuit. This has happening twice while under way (the second time about 10 minutes after replacing the blown fuse the first time). It then happen three more times before even starting the bike--just on turning on the bike (not even hitting the starter). These three occurred immediately after the second in-transit occurrence. I have tried it again yet, as I only picked up some more fuses today.

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 02, 2015, 11:14:26 PM »
Good to know ootscoot--I was thinking about wiring it back in (I like the idea of it), but maybe that's not such a great idea. Does anyone know WHAT the issue is with the switch? Is it just loose, and prone to sliding across, or poorly soldered, with poor contact, or...?

Citycom 300 / Re: Start/display problem
« on: May 02, 2015, 06:20:52 PM »
Okay... now this is just getting ridiculous.   >:( Apparently, there were some extra reason's my bike was a "good" deal.

I pulled the seat off to take a look at the wiring under there, and noticed that I didn't have to disconnect any wires to the ON/OFF lock under the seat...hmmm... I wonder why? Well, that would be because they've been CUT OFF! Further inspection and digging around finds two wires twisted together and taped up in approximately the right location for being connected to the switch. Confusingly however, the colours don't match: both wires coming out of the switch are blue--the two wires twisted together are green and purple respectively. AAARRGGG.

Further zooming in on images in the service manual reveal that the transition between these colour sets is via the (long departed) switch coupler.

Still haven't found my short, but needed to have a bit of a vent!

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